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When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary honour.